36 Hours in Busan, South Korea: Things to Do and See

Busan has a thriving coffee scene. One of the nation’s leading names is Momos Coffee, a cafe and roastery chain that has grown since 2007 from a 142-square-foot takeout shop to four locations in Busan. Part of its success can be attributed to the co-founder Joo Yeon Jeon’s win at the 2019 World Barista Championships. If you’re staying downtown, the closest location is housed in a former shipping warehouse on Yeongdo Island. Or if you’re staying farther east, try Momos in Marine City. Pair an Americano (6,000 won) in the cafe’s signature Es Chocolat blend with a pastry (from 3,000 won).

For stunning sea views, hike at Igidae, a 477-acre coastal park on a peninsula just north of Yeongdo Island. The park encompasses 80-million-year-old volcanic formations and is named after two courtesans who, according to legend, died taking down Japanese soldiers during the invasion of 1592. The three-mile-long Igidae Coastal Trail alternates between flat roads, stairs and suspension bridges that wind over rocky cliffs. Play “I Spy” with notable rock formations along the way: Chima Rockface is named for its skirt-like shape, and another, called Nongbawi, looks like a four-block rock tower. Start from the park’s northern entrance to finish at the Oryukdo Skywalk — a glass-bottom observation deck that looks out over the blue water to a cluster of six islets called Oryukdo.

Busan’s dishes reveal its history. The soup dwaeji gukbap was born of pork bones discarded by American soldiers during the Korean War. Find a slightly elevated version at the original Namcheon-dong location of Anmok, a chain that uses a broth simmered for 24 hours (10,000 won; reservations recommended). Another Busan signature, milmyeon, was developed by refugees from the North. Looking to recreate naengmyeon, a cold noodle dish made of buckwheat, they used wheat flour provided by U.S. military rations. Get it at Seomyeon Milmyeon — a no-frills restaurant in central Busan known for its sweet and spicy red sauce (9,000 won). More adventurous eaters can also try puffer fish, toxic to eat only when improperly prepared, and a local delicacy, in soup (from 12,000 won) at Kumsu Bokguk, a longstanding restaurant near Haeundae Beach.

Inside the futuristic Busan Cinema Center, the current home of the Film Festival, is a little-known gem: a free cinema library with more than 44,000 items. The library is on the fourth floor of its Double Cone building, named for its funnel-like shape and protruding ramp spirals. Browse rare, hardbound film magazines (mostly in Korean, but highly visual) and listen to an LP of your favorite movie soundtrack. Choose from an extensive DVD collection and pop into a private booth or watch a festival-winning short or feature in the Streaming Room. The collection includes English-language productions and movies with subtitles. Afterward, hungry cinephiles can find the sushi box (40,000 won) served in the 2022 Park Chan-wook film “Decision to Leave” at Sushi Nan, a 10-minute cab ride away.

The world’s biggest department store may not sound tranquil. But across the street from the Cinema Center, at the behemoth Centum City Shinsegae shopping complex, the jjimjilbang, or bathhouse, Spa Land offers deep relaxation (25,000 won, four hours). The complex has two main buildings: Follow the signs to Spa Land on the first floor of the confusingly named “Mall” building (not the one named “Department Store”). The baths, filled with thermal water pumped from 3,000 feet below ground, are fully nude and separated by gender. Pajamas are provided for the coed facilities, which include 13 different kinds of saunas, nap rooms, a gaming center and a ramen bar. For an additional 35,000 won, have an expert exfoliator give you a 25-minute Korean-style body scrub.

Catch the Sky Capsule — a brightly-colored railcar that moves on elevated train tracks — at the Haeundae Blueline Park. Redeveloped from disused railways, the park consists of two types of trains, three main stations and a three-mile walking path. Take the Sky Capsule route from Mipo Station to Cheongsapo Station, which takes you as high as 33 feet and offers the best sea view (30 minutes one way; ticket for two, 40,000 won). Switch it up on the way back on the Beach Train (8,000 won, one way), which runs along the ground and offers first-come first-served seating. All of the seats face the ocean, and the train makes more stops in case you’d like to get out and walk part of the way.

Get a taste of South Korea’s changing bar scene in the Millak-dong neighborhood, on Gwangalli Beach’s eastern end and near the Gwangan Bridge, which lights up at sunset. Recently, loud music and cheap beer are making way for thoughtful drinks and curated ambiance. Start at Ggulggeok House, a craft makgeolli (Korean rice wine) brewery that doesn’t use chemical sweeteners and offers small bites (glasses from 6,500 won). Then drop into Soochaehwa4rang, a restaurant and bar with ’80s-style décor. Request your favorite Korean indie hit on vinyl and order the house highball (9,000 won) and kimchi udon (14,000 won, ordering food is required). Lastly, visit Hongdan, which uses Korean ingredients like Jeju kiwis, red beans and seaweed in its innovative cocktails (from 18,000 won).